Skincare - Acne & Inflammation

Acne 

Acne is a common skin condition that can affect people of all ages, though it’s most commonly associated with adolescence. It occurs when hair follicles become clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and sometimes bacteria, leading to inflammation and the formation of pimples, blackheads, and cysts. Here’s a breakdown of what causes acne and what you can do about it:

The Dangers of Stripping Your Skin

Stripping the skin of its natural oils can have serious consequences, particularly for those struggling with acne or sensitive skin.

Why Stripping is Harmful

🔹 Destroys the Acid Mantle – The acid mantle is a protective barrier that shields the skin from bacteria, pollutants, and environmental damage. When this barrier is compromised, the skin becomes more prone to acne, infections, and irritation.

🔹 Triggers Oil Imbalance – Stripping the skin leads to excess sebum production as the skin tries to compensate for lost moisture. This often results in oilier skin and more breakouts, worsening acne instead of improving it.

🔹 Increases Acne & Infections – Without its natural barrier, the skin becomes more susceptible to bacterial overgrowth, leading to clogged pores, breakouts, and inflammation.

What Happens When You Strip Your Skin?

❌ Increased acne due to bacterial overgrowth
❌ Higher risk of infection and irritation
❌ Overproduction of oil (sebum), making skin even oilier

The Right Approach to Fighting Acne

Instead of harsh, stripping treatments, our approach is to balance, heal, and protect the skin using key ingredients that:
Reduce inflammation
Support the acid mantle
Regulate oil production
Fight acne-causing bacteria


Causes of Acne:

  1. Excess Oil Production (Sebum):

    • The sebaceous glands in your skin produce oil (sebum) to keep the skin hydrated. However, excess sebum can clog pores, trapping bacteria, dead skin cells, and other debris inside. This can lead to acne breakouts.
  2. Clogged Pores (Comedones):

    • When dead skin cells don’t shed properly, they can accumulate and clog hair follicles. This forms comedones, which can turn into blackheads (open comedones) or whiteheads (closed comedones).
  3. Hormonal Changes:

    • Hormones play a significant role in acne. Androgens (male hormones that both men and women have) increase during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, and conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). These hormonal shifts can enlarge sebaceous glands and lead to more oil production.
    • Hormonal acne often appears along the jawline, chin, and neck.
  4. Bacterial Growth (P. acnes):

    • Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) is a bacteria naturally found on the skin. When pores become clogged with excess oil and dead skin cells, the bacteria thrive in the blocked follicles, causing inflammation and pimples.
  5. Inflammation:

    • When the clogged pores become infected with bacteria, the body’s immune response creates inflammation. This leads to red, swollen pimples, cysts, or nodules.
  6. Diet and Lifestyle:

    • Diets high in sugar, dairy, or processed foods may exacerbate acne in some individuals, though the relationship is still being studied.
    • Stress can also play a role, as it triggers hormonal fluctuations that may increase sebum production.
  7. Cosmetic Products (Comedogenicity):

    • Some skincare and makeup products contain ingredients that can clog pores, known as comedogenic ingredients. Using products that aren’t labeled “non-comedogenic” can contribute to acne.
  8. Medications:

    • Certain medications, such as corticosteroids, birth control pills, and other drugs, can contribute to acne breakouts due to their hormonal effects.
  9. Genetics:

    • If your parents had acne, you may be more prone to developing it due to inherited factors that affect oil production, skin cell turnover, and inflammation.

What You Can Do About Acne:

Skincare and Lifestyle Tips:

  1. Cleansing:

    • Gentle cleansing: Wash your face twice a day with a gentle, non-comedogenic cleanser to remove excess oil, dirt, and impurities. Avoid harsh scrubbing, which can irritate the skin and worsen acne.
    • Avoid over-washing: Over-washing can strip your skin of natural oils, leading to more oil production.
  2. Topical Treatments:

    • Salicylic acid: A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that helps exfoliate inside the pores, keeping them clear of oil and debris. It’s excellent for treating blackheads and whiteheads.
    • Benzoyl peroxide: Helps kill the acne-causing bacteria P. acnes and reduce inflammation. It’s effective for treating more severe acne.
    • Retinoids (Retinol or Tretinoin): These increase cell turnover, preventing pores from becoming clogged. They can also reduce the appearance of acne scars over time. Retinoids should be used at night, as they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
    • Niacinamide: A soothing anti-inflammatory ingredient that can help reduce redness, control oil, and calm breakouts.
  3. Avoid Picking or Squeezing Acne:

    • Picking at acne can introduce more bacteria, increase inflammation, and lead to scarring. Let your acne heal naturally or with proper treatment.
  4. Non-comedogenic Products:

    • Opt for skincare and makeup products labeled “non-comedogenic,” meaning they won’t clog pores. Choose oil-free formulas that are less likely to contribute to acne.
  5. Moisturize:

    • Even if you have oily skin, don’t skip moisturizer. Use a lightweight, oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated without adding excess oil.
  6. Sun Protection:

    • Use Dermaki’s broad-spectrum sunscreen Mineral Shield. Some acne medications, like benzoyl peroxide and retinoids, can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays, increasing the risk of sunburn and hyperpigmentation.
  7. Diet and Hydration:

    • While diet’s role in acne is still being studied, some people find that cutting down on sugary foods, dairy, or high-glycemic foods (like white bread and pasta) helps reduce breakouts.
    • Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water, which can help maintain skin health.
  8. Stress Management:

    • Since stress can exacerbate acne, consider incorporating stress-reducing activities like yoga, meditation, exercise, or relaxation techniques into your routine.
  9. Consult a Dermatologist:

    • If acne is severe, persistent, or leading to scarring, it’s best to consult a dermatologist. They may recommend treatments like:
      • Prescription medications (oral antibiotics, oral contraceptives, or spironolactone for hormone-related acne).
      • Topical treatments (stronger retinoids or benzoyl peroxide).
      • Chemical peels, laser therapy, or light therapy to target acne and reduce scarring.

Cystic Acne

Cystic acne is a severe form of acne that occurs when pores become deeply inflamed, leading to painful, pus-filled cysts. It requires a holistic approach that includes gentle skincare, internal wellness, and lifestyle adjustments.


Recommended Skincare Routine for Cystic Acne

  1. Clarifying Cleanser – A gentle, non-stripping cleanser with zinc oxide, green tea, and tamanu oil to reduce inflammation and soothe acne-prone skin​.
  2. Clarifying Face & Body Bar – Contains tea tree, copaiba, and round leaf buchu extract, which help fight acne bacteria and inflammation​.
  3. Clarifying Mist – A hydrating and antibacterial toner with oregano oil, tamanu oil, and copaiba to calm breakouts​.
  4. Clarifying Serum – A treatment serum with retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A), rosehip oil, and tea tree oil to target breakouts and heal the skin​.
  5. Clarifying Complex – A concentrated treatment with tamanu oil, oregano oil, and tea tree essential oil for deep acne healing​.
  6. Inflammation Powder – Can be mixed with cleansers or serums to reduce redness and swelling from active breakouts​.
  7. Apply Barrier Repair daily. 

Pustular Acne: Causes & Holistic Treatment

Pustular acne is a type of inflammatory acne characterized by red, swollen pimples filled with pus. These are caused by bacterial overgrowth, clogged pores, and inflammation. A gentle yet effective skincare routine, paired with internal wellness, can help reduce breakouts and prevent scarring.


Recommended Skincare Routine for Pustular and Hormonal Acne

  1. Clarifying Cleanser – A lotion-based, non-stripping cleanser with zinc oxide, green tea, and tamanu oil to reduce redness and kill acne-causing bacteria​.
  2. Clarifying Face & Body Bar – A gentle cleansing bar infused with tea tree, copaiba, and round leaf buchu extract to deeply purify without over-drying​.
  3. Clarifying Mist – A balancing toner featuring oregano oil, tamanu oil, and copaiba to help disinfect and reduce pustular breakouts​.
  4. Clarifying Serum – Contains Vitamin A (retinyl palmitate), rosehip oil, and tea tree essential oil to promote skin healing and reduce inflammation​.
  5. Clarifying Complex – A spot treatment with tamanu oil, oregano oil, and tea tree essential oil to help shrink pustules and prevent scarring​.
  6. Inflammation Powder – A powerful anti-inflammatory blend with zinc oxide, green tea, and turmeric to reduce redness and irritation. Mix with cleanser or serum for a custom mask​.
  7. Exfoliating Cleanser (2% Mandelic Acid) – A gentle exfoliant to unclog pores and prevent future breakouts​.
  8. Apply Barrier Repair daily. 

Holistic Skincare & Lifestyle Tips for Pustular and Hormonal Acne

Internal Support:
Gut Health – Add probiotic-rich foods like kimchi, sauerkraut, and yogurt to balance your microbiome.
Blood Sugar Balance – Avoid high-glycemic foods (sugary snacks, white bread) that spike insulin and worsen acne.
Liver Support – Detox with foods like beets, dandelion tea, and leafy greens to help the body clear out toxins.

Lifestyle Adjustments:
Reduce Stress – High cortisol levels can increase breakouts. Try yoga, meditation, or journaling.
Change Pillowcases Often – Bacteria and oil buildup can make pustular acne worse. Switch to silk pillowcases and wash them 2x a week.
No Picking! – Popping pustules can spread bacteria and cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).


Preventing & Treating Acne Scarring (PIH & Texture Issues)

Once pustular acne starts healing, preventing hyperpigmentation (dark marks) and textural scars (pitting or indentations) is key. The right combination of healing oils, gentle exfoliation, and skin barrier repair will help restore smooth, even-toned skin.


Acne Scars

🔹 For Dark Spots & Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH):

  1. Vitamin C Complex – Brightens and fades scars with stabilized Vitamin C, rosehip oil, and pearl powder​.
  2. Advanced Dermal Complex and Advanced Aging Powder – Mix these two products together and create a mask.  Leave on skin 5 to 10 minutes and wash off.  Do this 3 times a week.  
  3. Exfoliating Cleanser (2% Mandelic Acid) – Gently removes dead skin cells, promoting faster skin turnover and fading acne marks​.

🔹 For Textural Scars (Pitting, Indentations):
4. Rejuvenating Serum – Hydrates and plumps skin with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and mushroom extract to smooth out rough texture​.
5. Exfoliating Powder – A mix of pearl powder, turmeric, and activated charcoal to refine skin texture​.
6. Dermaki-Plex (For Professional Treatments) – This is a micro-needling and ultrasound serum designed to improve dermal density and collagen production (great if you’re doing facials with a licensed esthetician)​.

7. Use Mineral Shield daily when out in the sun. 


Tips for Fading Acne Scars

Internal Support for Healing & Brightening:
Increase Collagen Production – Eat bone broth, wild salmon, flaxseeds, and Vitamin C-rich foods (oranges, bell peppers).
Reduce Inflammation – Turmeric, green tea, and omega-3s (found in chia seeds, walnuts, and fatty fish) help speed up skin repair.
Hydrate & Detoxify – Drink lemon water, dandelion tea, and aloe vera juice to support liver detox and reduce leftover acne redness.

Gentle Skincare Practices:
Use Sunscreen – Sun exposure makes acne scars darker. Even if you’re indoors, use an SPF daily.
Don’t Over-Exfoliate – Stick to 2-3x a week exfoliation to avoid irritating healing skin.
Facial Massage & Gua Sha – Increases circulation, helping scars fade faster.

Bakuchiol oil is often referred to as a “natural alternative to retinol,” but it’s important to clarify that bakuchiol does not convert into retinoic acid in the body or on the skin.

Here’s a detailed explanation:

Why we love Natural Vitamin A’s and Retinol Palmitate over Retinol

 1. What is Bakuchiol?

  • Bakuchiol is a meroterpene compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant (also called Babchi).

  • Chemically, it is not related to retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), although it shows similar effects in the skin.

2. What is Retinoic Acid?

  • Retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A used in the skin (e.g., tretinoin).

  • Retinol (vitamin A alcohol) → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic acid (in the skin through enzymatic conversion).

3. Does Bakuchiol Convert to Retinoic Acid?

No.
Bakuchiol:

  • Is a completely different molecule from retinoids.

  • Does not go through enzymatic conversion to retinoic acid.

  • Has no structural similarity to retinoic acid.

Instead, bakuchiol works via a different biochemical mechanism but activates some of the same gene expression pathways that retinoic acid does. That’s why it can mimic the effects of retinoids—such as:

  • Boosting collagen production

  • Reducing fine lines and wrinkles

  • Improving pigmentation

  • Acting as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent

4. Key Differences: Bakuchiol vs. Retinoic Acid

Property Bakuchiol Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)
Chemical Structure Plant-derived terpene Vitamin A derivative
Conversion to Retinoic Acid ❌ No ✅ Yes (from retinol/retinaldehyde)
Irritation Potential Low High
Photosensitivity No Yes
Pregnancy-Safe? Possibly (no retinoid structure) – but consult a doctor Not safe

Conclusion:

Bakuchiol does not convert to retinoic acid, but it offers retinol-like benefits through a different mechanism—making it a gentler, plant-based alternative for those with sensitive skin or those avoiding retinoids.

If they both convert and have the same results, then why not choose the safer version.  This is the Corneotherapy way!!!

Bakuchiol and retinoic acid conversion comparison diagram

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